Trouser Hem Calculator

The break is the small fold or crease that forms where the trouser front rests on the shoe. It is created by leaving a little extra length so the fabric pools: no break (0cm) just grazes the shoe, half break (about 1.3cm / 0.5in) gives a gentle fold, standard break (about 2cm) a clear single fold, and full break (about 3cm / 1in+) a deep fold all round. This calculator adds your chosen break to the finished length, so a fuller break marks the fold line lower. Modern slim trousers usually take no break or half break.

Yes, if there is enough fabric in the existing hem allowance. Unpick the hem, press out the old fold line (use a vinegar and water solution for stubborn creases), and re-hem at the new length. If there is insufficient fabric, add a facing strip of matching or contrasting fabric.

Blind hem is the most common for dress trousers — it is nearly invisible from the outside. Topstitch hems suit casual trousers and jeans. Cuffed hems (turn-ups) are a style choice, typically 3 to 5cm deep — but note a turn-up needs about twice the cuff depth plus a 2.5cm turn-under in fabric (roughly 10cm for a 4cm cuff), so keep enough hem allowance before trimming. Raw or narrow hems work for lightweight and casual styles.

Measure from the waistband seam down the outside leg to your desired finished length. When trying on, wear the shoes you plan to wear with the trousers. Pin the hem in place and check both legs — they should appear even when standing straight.