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Lining Calculator
Calculate lining fabric needed from shell pattern measurements.
How We Calculate This
Calculation
Fabric length = (Shell length × Coverage × Garment multiplier + Hem + Seam + Pleat) × Body layers + Sleeve length
Panel width = (½ bust × Ease + 4 × Seam) × Garment width multiplier. The ease factor is applied to the girth/width term only.
For sleeved garments (jacket, coat), a full or half lining also lines both sleeves, so a sleeve length (~60-62cm plus hem and seam) is added — this is what makes a full jacket/coat lining come out at roughly 1.5-1.75 yards rather than just the body length.
Coverage types
- Full: whole garment length, plus sleeves on jackets/coats
- Half: lined to the waist (~55% of length); sleeves still lined
- Partial: front panels only (full garment length, no back or sleeve lining)
Jackets and coats include a 2.5cm centre back ease pleat allowance (1 inch at the seam, 5cm on the fold). Trouser lengths are doubled for two legs. The ease factor widens the panel only — it is not applied to length.
Frequently Asked Questions
A full lining covers the same pieces as the shell that are lined — including both sleeves — so a fully lined jacket or coat typically needs about 1.5 to 1.75 yards (roughly 140-160cm) of lining, which is close to the shell fabric length once sleeves are counted. For jackets and coats, add about 2.5cm (1 inch) at the centre back for the ease pleat, which becomes 5cm (2 inch) on the fold. A half lining (to the waist, sleeves still lined) needs a little less. Always check your pattern pieces against the lining fabric width.
Bemberg (cupro) rayon is the gold standard for tailored garments — it is breathable, anti-static and drapes beautifully. Polyester lining is cheaper and works for everyday garments. Silk habotai is lovely for special occasion wear. In the UK, Merchant & Mills and The Fabric Store stock quality linings.
Yes, lining should be very slightly larger than the shell (1-2% ease) to allow comfortable movement and prevent pulling. The back of a jacket lining includes a centre back ease pleat — add 2.5cm (1 inch) at the centre back seam, which folds to 5cm (2 inch) of pleat for arm movement. Skirt linings need a walking vent or pleat at the hem.
Always preshrink lining before cutting. Most lining fabrics shrink 1-3% when washed or steamed. If the shell is dry-clean only, steam press the lining. For washable garments, wash the lining at the same temperature you will wash the finished garment.
Related Calculators
Sleeve Ease Calculator
Calculate sleeve cap ease based on armhole measurement, garment style and fabric type.
Waistband Calculator
Calculate fabric cut size, interfacing dimensions, elastic length and notions for any waistband type.
Placket Calculator
Calculate button placket dimensions, button spacing and buttonhole length for garment construction.
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Last updated: March 2026
All calculations are estimates. Always verify quantities before cutting or purchasing fabric.