How much extra fabric do I need for lining?

As a rough guide, buy the same length as your shell fabric for a fully lined garment. For jackets and coats, add about 2.5cm (1 inch) at the centre back for the ease pleat, which becomes 5cm (2 inch) on the fold. For half-lined garments, you need about 55% of the shell length. Always check your pattern pieces against the lining fabric width.

What is the best lining fabric?

Bemberg (cupro) rayon is the gold standard for tailored garments — it is breathable, anti-static and drapes beautifully. Polyester lining is cheaper and works for everyday garments. Silk habotai is lovely for special occasion wear. In the UK, Merchant & Mills and The Fabric Store stock quality linings.

Do I need to add ease to lining?

Yes, lining should be very slightly larger than the shell (1-2% ease) to allow comfortable movement and prevent pulling. The back of a jacket lining includes a centre back ease pleat — add 2.5cm (1 inch) at the centre back seam, which folds to 5cm (2 inch) of pleat for arm movement. Skirt linings need a walking vent or pleat at the hem.

Should I preshrink lining fabric?

Always preshrink lining before cutting. Most lining fabrics shrink 1-3% when washed or steamed. If the shell is dry-clean only, steam press the lining. For washable garments, wash the lining at the same temperature you will wash the finished garment.

SewCalcs

Lining Calculator

Calculate lining fabric needed from shell pattern measurements.

Garment TypeType of garment being lined

Lining TypeFull, half or partial lining

Shell Length

Finished length of the shell garment

Bust / Chest

Body bust or chest measurement

How We Calculate This

Calculation

Fabric length = (Shell length × Coverage × Garment multiplier + Hem + Seam + Pleat) × Layers

Panel width = (½ bust × Ease + 4 × Seam) × Garment width multiplier. The ease factor is applied to the girth/width term only.

Coverage types

Full: 100% of garment
Half: 55% (to waist)
Partial: 45% (front panels)

Jackets and coats include a 2.5cm centre back ease pleat allowance (1 inch at the seam, 5cm on the fold). Trouser lengths are doubled for two legs. The ease factor widens the panel only — it is not applied to length.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Last updated: March 2026

All calculations are estimates. Always verify quantities before cutting or purchasing fabric.